Caring for poinsettia, the complete guide

One December, I was fortunate to attend a conference in South Florida. Upon arriving at the resort, I noticed a large, beautiful display of red poinsettia growing around a circular fountain in front of the entrance. Being from the northeastern part of the US, this is a unique sight. That’s when I learned poinsettia is a tropical plant and thrives outdoors in USDA zones 10-12. But there’s more to caring for poinsettia.

Estimated reading time: 6 minutes

Interesting background on the poinsettia

The poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is native to Mexico. Joel R Poinsett, the first US Ambassador to Mexico, imported poinsettia into the USA in 1828. It found a home in the Bartram Botanical Garden in Philadelphia and was named after Joel Poinsett.

Here are several interesting facts about poinsettia plants.

• It’s the most popular Christmas plant.
• Overall best-selling potted plant in the US and Canada. Poinsettia sales are well over 70 million plants during the 6-week period leading up to Christmas.
• Women purchase 80% of poinsettia plants.
• Red is the most popular color making up 80% of poinsettia sales.
• Contrary to widely held belief, poinsettia are not poisonous to humans, cats or dogs. However, they do produce a white sap that can be irritating to skin.

Structure of a poinsettia

A poinsettia is made up of green leaves, bracts, which look like petals, and the tiny yellow flowers in the center called cyathia. See the picture below with labels of the various parts.

How to pick a poinsettia

When choosing a poinsettia, observe all parts of the plant.

• Look for plants that are balanced from all sides.
• The plant should be well hydrated. Neither the leaves nor bracts should be wilted or drooping.
• Check for an abundance of dark green leaves under the bracts and going down the stem.
• The small yellow flowers in the center of the bracts should look fresh and should not be turning brown.

Caring for your poinsettia inside the home

The good news about caring for a poinsettia is that they can retain their color until March with proper care. Poinsettia is considered a short-day plant because they initiate their colorful leaves in response to shorter days in fall and winter.

• Light:  Poinsettia like direct sunlight. Therefore, place the plant in a south, east or west facing window.
• Water: Keep the soil moist and do not allow the soil to completely dry out. Every 5 days check the soil by doing a finger test. Stick your finger into the soil about 1 inch. If the soil feels dry, then water. Further, poinsettia do not like “wet feet”. Empty water that fills the saucer under the plant. In addition, it’s a good idea to either remove the foil wrapping that surrounds the plant or cut a drainage hole in the bottom.
• Fertilizing: Don’t fertilize when the plant is in bloom (e.g., the tiny yellow flowers in the center, called cyathia, are present). Begin fertilizing in March and continue through October. Use a low phosphorous fertilizer with an NPK (Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium) proportion of 15-0-15 or 15-5-15 or 20-10-20.
• Temperature: Ideal indoor temperature for poinsettia is between 65-70 degrees.
• Pruning: Cut off the fading bracts and leave 4-6 inches on each stem and as many green leaves as possible. Prune regularly through mid-September as poinsettia can become leggy.
• Transplanting: If you plan to care for your poinsettia all year, consider transplanting into container 2 inches larger than the current container. Use a well-draining peat-based soil mix.

Caring for poinsettia outside the home in the garden

• Light:  Outdoors, poinsettia prefer part-sun 4-6 hours per day.
• Water: Keep the soil moist and do not allow the soil to completely dry out.
• Fertilizing: Fertilize monthly March through October. Use a low phosphorous fertilizer with an NPK (Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium) proportion of 15-0-15 or 15-5-15 or 20-10-20.
• Temperature: Plant outdoors after all danger of frost has past and temperatures are above 50 degrees F. USDA Garden zones 10-12 are best suited for growing poinsettia outdoors.
• Soil: Choose a well-draining peat-based soil mix. When moving a poinsettia outside, transplant into a container that is 2 inches larger than its current size container. If planting directly in the ground add some organic matter to the soil.
• Pruning: Cut off the fading bracts and leave 4-6 inches on each stem and as many green leaves as possible. Prune regularly through mid-September as poinsettia can become leggy.

Bring poinsettia back to flower

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Poinsettia can be challenging to rebloom, but not impossible. My brother has been caring for a poinsettia for four years and is very proud when his reblooms. The pictures above are of his poinsettia. So beautiful and well worth the effort. Here is some advice from Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor at the University of Vermont, on how to get your poinsettia to rebloom.

• LABOR DAY–Move indoors to a spot that gets at least six hours of direct light daily, preferably more. As new growth begins, reduce the amount of fertilizer.
• AUTUMNAL EQUINOX–Starting on or near Sept. 21, give the plant 13 hours of uninterrupted darkness (put the plant in a closet, basement, or under a box) and 11 hours of bright light each day. Maintain night temperatures in the low 60-degree F range. Continue to water and fertilize. Rotate the plant daily to give all sides even light.
• THANKSGIVING–Discontinue the short day/long night treatment. Put the plant in a sunny area that gets at least six hours of direct light. Reduce water and fertilizer.
• CHRISTMAS–Enjoy your “new” poinsettia. Start the cycle all over again.

Potential problems with poinsettia

• Insects – The most common insects that may impact poinsettia include whiteflies, mealybugs, and spider mites. Spider mites and mealybugs can be controlled with insecticidal soaps. Whiteflies can be treated with Neem oil.
• Root rot – This can occur if plants are overwatered or left with standing water beneath the plant.
• Leaf drop – This can happen if plant remains in temperatures below 50 degrees F. In addition, poor light or nutrition can cause leaf drop.

I wish you much success in caring for your poinsettia.

Additional Gardening Information

You may want to check out the following posts for more gardening ideas:

• Holiday beauty with Amaryllis blubs
• Holiday Wreath, Super Easy To Make – DIY
• Modern Advent Wreath, Super Easy to Make – DIY
• Growing and caring for marigolds, the complete guide
• Growing and caring for zinnias, the complete guide

References

University of Minnesota Extension

Clemson Cooperative Extension

University of Florida/IFAS