Welcome to your journey to make a difference in the sustainability of our planet and to add joy to your life. That’s what happens when you start a vegetable garden. The robins, blue jays and squirrels will spread the benefits that you create in your garden throughout your community. What a great feeling to make a difference while at the same time growing the best food possible. Remember, take it slow and find contentment in the small things that you do to start a garden.
STEP 1: PLANNING
In my professional life, planning was always the first and most important activity for any project. When I started gardening, I didn’t give planning the due it deserves. I purposely put this as the first step because I learned the hard way, that a little planning goes a long way to start a vegetable garden with success and joy.
Let’s start by considering a couple of questions:
Do you have an area that gets at least 8 hours of sunlight a day?
- If yes, great, you will be able to grow most vegetables.
- If not, don’t despair, you will need to be more choosy in what you grow. A minimum of 4 hours a day is needed. It is important to note that no vegetable will grow in dense shade.
What type of garden do you want?
- Container garden – container gardening is the practice of growing plants in a container instead of in the ground. A container is usually a small and portable object that might traditionally display flowers or plants. The container chosen needs to have good drainage. You will also need to think about the depth of the container as different vegetables have different root depths.
- Raised Bed Gardening – this is a form of gardening where the bed has been raised above the surface of the ground. The raised bed is framed leveraging some type of material that will not introduce toxins to the garden (cedar, stones, resins). The raised bed is usually 3-4 feet wide and has a depth of 6-12 inches (I prefer the 12-inch depth because the roots have more space) and can be as long as you want. I have a combination of 4 feet by 4 feet raised beds and 4 feet by 12 feet. There should be a minimum of 12 inches between each raised bed.
- Regular Gardening – this is where you simply plant your vegetables directly in the ground in an area that you have prepared. Depending upon the area where your garden will be located, think of creating strips that are 3-4 feet wide and of any length. There should be a minimum of 12 inches between each strip. I experimented with this design also and had equal success (and sometimes failure) as the raised bed gardens.
What types of vegetables and herbs do you and your family enjoy?
- It is important to think about what you will grow because this has a direct relationship to the amount of sun you have available and the type of garden you will be creating. Try to avoid the tendency to grow too much from both a quantity and variety perspective. In other words, be purposeful in what you grow. I started with 3 different vegetables (cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes) and 2-3 plants of each. Your space will be the limiting factor to how much you can grow. Vegetables have different space requirements. See the chart below to better understand how much space needs to be planned for various vegetables.
CONTAINER GARDENING SPACE REQUIREMENTS
Vegetable | Container Size (in gallons) |
Broccoli | 2-gallon, 1 plant |
Beets | 2-gallon, 2-3 plants |
Cabbages | 1-gallon, 1 plant |
Carrots | 2-gallon, 3-4 plants |
Cucumbers | 1-gallon, 1 plant |
Eggplant | 2-gallon, 1 plant |
Green beans | 2-gallon, 2-3 plants |
Green onion | 1-gallon, 3-5 plants |
Kale | 1-gallon, 2 plants |
Leaf lettuce | 1-gallon, 2 plants |
Parsley | 1-gallon, 3 plants |
Pepper | 5-gallon, 1-2 plants |
Radish | 1-gallon, 3 plants |
Spinach | 1-gallon, 2 plants |
Swiss Chard | 1-gallon, 2 plants |
Tomato | 5-gallon, 1 plant |
*IN-GROUND GARDENING SPACE REQUIREMENTS
Vegetable | Row Spacing | Plant Spacing |
Broccoli | 30″ | 24″ |
Beets | 18″ | 3″ |
Cabbages | 30″ | 24″ |
Carrots | 12″ | 1″ |
Cucumbers | 30″ | 12″ |
Green beans | 30″ | 4″ |
Scallion | 12″ | 1″ |
Kale | 18″ | 12″ |
Leaf lettuce | 12″ | 12″ |
Parsley | 12″ | 6″ |
Pepper | 30″ | 12″ |
Radish | 4″ | 2″ |
Spinach | 12″ | 3″ |
Tomato | 60″ | 24″ |
*As described in Elliot Coleman’s book "The New Organic Gardner"
STEP 2: LOCATION
Now that you have an idea of the type of garden you are planning (container, raised bed, regular) and what you want to grow, let’s discuss location. The most important aspect of choosing a location is the number of hours per day of direct sunlight. Plants will not grow without adequate sunlight. Here are some general guidelines of the sunlight requirements of various vegetables as you start a vegetable garden.
Vegetable Type | Hours of Sunlight |
Fruit Vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash) | 8 hours/day |
Root Vegetables (carrots, onions, beets) | 6 hours/day |
Leaf Vegetables (lettuce, spinach, collards) | 4 hours/day |
It is important to observe the area you are considering at various times throughout the day. Are there trees or bushes that will shade the garden at a certain time of day? Another aspect of location is access to water. The water supply should be close to avoid trips back and forth to the water supply.
In the northern hemisphere, a north/south garden orientation is preferred to an east/west orientation. A north/south orientation provides the best sun exposure. My garden currently has an east/west orientation and I need to pay attention to plant placement to ensure that larger plants don’t shade smaller vegetable plants.
STEP 3: SOIL
For an organic garden, soil is the most important aspect when you start a vegetable garden. We will spend more time in this area. Remember, having the right soil will create benefits not only for the plants you grow but also for the environment. I highly recommend you get a soil test if you are planning an in ground garden. Here are a two reputable companies that perform soil testing: International Ag Labs and Logan Labs. If you live near a university that has an agricultural school, they likely perform soil tests. For example, in New Jersey, Rutgers University has a soil testing service. After your first year of establishing a raised bed, I recommend you get the soil tested to understand whether you need to make any nutrient changes.
There are three crucial nutritive elements that are needed in good soil:
- Nitrogen (N) – provides sturdy green growth and is a major constituent of chlorophyll
- Phosphorus (P) – necessary for the development of flowers and resistance to disease
- Potassium (K) – effects root and leaf growth and is especially important for root crops (carrots, beets, onions)
Fertilizers will be noted by 5-10-5. This implies the percentage of N, P, and K. In a 5-10-5 fertilizer, there is 5% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus and 5% potassium.
The overall Ph of the soil for most vegetables should be between 6.5 – 6.8. I purchased an inexpensive soil pH tester and found this to be inaccurate. My recommendation is to get your soil tested.
Soil for container gardening
There are two considerations for filling your containers: soil or synthetic mixes. It is generally believed that synthetic mixes are better for containers due to the following:
- Good aeration and holds moisture and nutrients
- Less heavy than soil and this makes moving containers easier
- Mixes are free of disease and weeds
Synthetic mixes can be found at most garden stores (or you can make yourself). The Rutgers Fact Sheet provides the following recipe for making a mix at home: horticultural-grade vermiculite, peat moss, limestone, superphosphate, and 5-10-5 fertilizer. For 1 bushel each of vermiculite and shredded peat moss, add 1 ½ cups of dolomitic limestone, ½ cup of 20% superphosphate, and 1 cup of 5- 10-5 fertilizer. All materials should then be mixed thoroughly.
Soil for raised bed or in ground gardening
The following is a good recipe for creating the initial soil for your garden. This soil can be reused again and again with the addition of extra amendments in the future. To ensure that you are following good organic practices, look for the OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) organic symbol on all items you purchase. The first three items should each be 1/3 of the overall mix.
- Peat moss is a natural soil amendment that is derived from aged sphagnum moss bogs. Peat moss has good aeration and high-water retention. (1/3)
- Compost for me this consisted of two elements: decaying leaves and animal manure. Animal manures provide many nutrients, especially nitrogen. (1/3)
- Top Soil if you have good soil you may not need to add any top soil. Because I did not trust the quality of my soil, I added a good layer of top soil. (1/3)
- Soil amendments (based upon your soil test)
- Dry organic fertilizer (5-3-4 is a good choice)
- Kelp Meal provide a good source of potassium and contains all the micro-nutrients your plants need
- Lime neutralizes the acidity of the peat moss and helps stabilize/raise pH
STEP 4: SEEDS
Now the true fun and joy begins! How exciting to get to the point of picking your seeds. I have chosen to start all my plants from seeds because I found it difficult to find plants that were organic. As a beginner gardener I was impressed by the results from seeds. Yes, I was intimidated when I began and yes, I hated to thin my seedlings.
When you start a vegetable garden, it is important to research and find a good organic seed producer. There are several such producers and most seeds can be ordered via the internet. While I have ordered most of my seeds from Vermont based High Mowing Organic Seeds, there are a number of good seed companies including: Johnny’s Selected Seeds, Fedco Seeds and Turtle Tree Seed.
For starting your seeds, there are four things that you will need to consider:
Timing
When to start what seeds. This is very dependent upon your growing zone. In general, annual vegetables should be started indoors 6 weeks before the last frost in your zone. The Farmer’s Almanac has a great tool, based upon your zip code, for guidance on when to start seeds indoors and when to plant outside.
Temperature
Most seeds will easily germinate in a soil temperature between 65 -80 degrees Fahrenheit. Lettuce and spinach (early corps) can be direct seeded outdoors in soil temperature of 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Potting Mix
Tthis should be light, have good water retention and good drainage. I recommend using a mix specifically for starting seedlings and approved for organic gardening. If possible, visit your local garden store or farm and talk to them about local mixtures.
Containers
Any container that provides good drainage can be used. You can purchase ‘flats’ that each contain a number of growing cells or plugs. The larger number of plugs the smaller the plug size. The flat may have another tray that fits under the bottom and is used as a water reservoir. In addition, a clear plastic dome may be included to keep the humidity high for seed germination. Remember to label your containers (very important).
Light
While I have grown most of my seedlings using the natural light that comes into my house, this is only practical when you have a window or sliding door that receives 6 hours of sunlight each day. LED lights are a good alternative and work well.
Sowing Seeds
Let’s sow the seeds. Here are the steps:
- Prepare the potting mix by moistening mix with warm water
- Fill the containers with the potting mix, lightly tapping the mix into the container
- Plant the seed:
- Read the seed packages for the guidelines pertaining to planting depth, germination time, plant size and light requirements.
- If you have pelleted seeds (seeds coated in a material making them round and uniform) you can plant one seed per growing cell. For other seeds, is best to place 2-4 seeds per cell and then thin later. In general, plant the seed at a ¼ inch depth in the soil.
- Place the seed tray in the lighted area you have prepared
- Water the seedling: it is best to water from the bottom. Place the seed tray into a container filled with ½ inch of water. Watch as the soil absorbs becomes moist and then promptly remove.
STEP 5: TRANSPLANTING IN THE GROUND (OR CONTAINER) or DIRECT SEEDING
At this point you have picked the location, prepared your soil and have your seeds or seedlings (or plants) ready to plant, congratulations! When you start a vegetable garden, there are a couple of things to consider before you place that seed, seedling or plant in the ground.
Acclimation or “hardening off”
If you have started seeds indoors, it is important to gradually get them use to the outside. I have met gardeners who have different thoughts on the hardening off process. Some recommend moving seedlings outdoors, to a protected area, as soon as the second set of leaves sprout (referred to as true leaves). At a minimum, the hardening off period should start 7 days before you plant the seedling in the ground. The Farmer’s Almanac has a great tool, based upon your zip code, for guidance on when to plant outside.
Temperature
Ensure that the outside temperature is warm enough for what is being planted. One year I lost all my cucumber seedlings because I planted too early. This is very specific to your location or zone.
Plant Spacing
Read the guidance on the seed package and review the guidelines provided earlier. In general, the guidance of seed packages is conservative. By conservative, I mean that in most cases you can plant more densely then what is stated. You will come to better understand this aspect with experience and observation.
Companion plants
By this I mean what vegetables are you planting together. Vegetables can be grouped into different ‘families’ and it is important to plant families together (makes sense if you think about the concept of family). Instead of talking about the biological family names (e.g. Brassicaceae, Solanaceae), I like a simple concept of general categories proposed by Eliot Coleman in his book The New Organic Gardner. This scheme can also be used as the basis of crop rotation each year (I will cover crop rotation in a separate post).
Root Crops | Vine Crops | Brassica Crops | Greens | Legumes | Fruit Crops | Grain Crops |
Beet | Squash | Broccoli | Lettuce | Pea | Tomato | Corn |
Carrots | Cucumber | Cauliflower | Spinach | Bean | Pepper |
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Onion |
| Cabbage | Chard |
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Parsnip |
| Brussels Sprouts | Parsley |
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Potato |
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| Celery |
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Rutabaga |
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| Kale |
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Radish |
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- Document your planting – on a piece of paper or in an excel spreadsheet, document exactly what you have planted and where you have planted. This will be extremely helpful as you monitor the current season and begin to plan for the next season. I also like to track the following:
- Date of planting
- Week by week assessment of the progress. This is particularly important if you direct seed (e.g. don’t plant a seedling or plant). You will want to observe and record how long it took the seeds to germinate. Germination tracking is good practice whether you start a seedling or direct seed.
- Fertilizer applied and when
- Pest treatments and when
- What and how much were you able to harvest.
In summary
Lot’s of information to help you start a vegetable garden. Good luck on your journey. Here are a few links to go deeper on a few topics.
Resources:
Texas A&M AgriLIfe Extension Container Gardening: http://agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/EHT-062-vegetable-gardening-in-containers.pdf
Farmer’s Almanac Planting Guidelines by Zip Code: https://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-calendar
Rutgers Fact Sheet Container Gardening: https://njaes.rutgers.edu/FS055/
University of Florida Raised Bed Gardening: http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/types-of-gardens/raised-beds.html
Purdue Container and Raised Bed Gardening: https://www.purdue.edu/hla/sites/yardandgarden/extpub/ho-200-w/
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