Four simple steps to transition houseplants indoors

Via experience, I know that some of my houseplants love to spend the summer outdoors. A few years ago, I moved a container of succulents outdoors for the summer. I was amazed at their growth over the course of the summer. They grew so much that each plant within the container needed repotting. Being encouraged by that small experiment, I gradually started placing more houseplants outdoors during summer. In this article, I will discuss four simple steps to transition houseplants indoors. I will focus on recommendations to ensure you don’t bring pests inside with the houseplant.

A little bit about the outdoor environment where I place my plants. I am in New Jersey USDA Zone 6b. I have a covered front porch where I place my plants. It has a northern exposure and gets bright morning sun. The three plants I placed on the porch this year are the Climbing Aloe (Aloiampelus cilliaris), Spider Plant (Chlorophytum), and Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata).

First, I find that I need to get psyched for the transition process. Why, well the process I follow requires time, energy, and focus. While I will share my process, I will also provide some alternatives.

Estimated reading time: 8 minutes

Step 1 Transition Houseplants – Location, location, location

Plan a space for the plants you transition indoors. If you are like me, I always seem to be moving my plants around. Therefore, where they started may not be where they ended up. In addition, be sure you match your plant’s light requirements to the amount of sunlight it will receive in its location. Remember, your plants just had plenty of sunshine all summer. Finally, consider that your plant may need to be transplanted into a larger container.

Step 2 Transition Houseplants – Timing

When outdoor temperatures dip below 50 degrees, it is time to transition plants indoors. Watch the weather forecast so that you have a head’s up as to when temperatures will begin to turn cooler. However, know that plants prefer a slow acclimation back indoors. Consider moving them to a shadier area outdoors before moving them inside. I transition my plants to the garage before bringing them indoors. While the light level isn’t great in the garage, there are two windows and a door with a window. I don’t leave them for longer than a few days.

Step 3 Transition Houseplants – Inspection

The most important step. My biggest fear of putting houseplants outdoors is the thought of bringing pests into the house when I transition them inside. Therefore, it’s important to inspect the container, the top and bottom of the leaves, and the soil. Let’s first discuss the containers and leaves.

• Check all around the container for any pests. If the container has a detachable saucer check and clean the saucer. Clean the outside of the container.
• Check each leaf for any evidence of pests. Gently clean each leaf with a mixture of one tablespoon of dish detergent to 4 cups of water.
• Remove any dead or dying leaves or branches from the plant.

While it’s easy enough to inspect containers and leaves, it’s much more difficult to inspect the soil. To alleviate this problem, I always repot my plants. My experience is that when a houseplant is outdoors for the summer, it puts on significant growth. Thus, the plant not only benefits but also usually needs repotting. The three plants I had outdoors this summer were all pot-bound by the time they were ready to bring inside. I will explain my repotting process in the next step.

Now, this approach might not be practical when transitioning a large plant/container indoors. Or you may not feel repotting is necessary. If this is the case, then inspect the soil as best you can. If you find evidence of pests in the soil, then treat the soil with insecticidal soap until the problem is resolved. Follow the directions closely on the insecticidal soap used.

Step 4 Transition Houseplants – Repotting

Repotting is my preferred approach prior to transitioning houseplants inside. I like to do this process either in my garage or outside. It can be rather messy. Here is my process:

Preparation

• Purchase a good quality indoor potting soil
• Choose a container that is 1-2 inches larger than the current container
• Put on a pair of garden gloves and have a small hand shovel and pruning shears ready

Plant removal

• Allow the soil of the plant to be repotted to be more dry than moist. I find plants easier to work with when this is the case. Use a small hand shovel and go around the container and loosen the soil.
• To remove the plant, tip the container to one side and gently tug at the stem of the plant. If the plant is still difficult to remove, go around the container again and loosen the soil a second time.

Caring for the roots

• Once the plant is out of the container, use your hands to remove as much of the soil around the roots as possible. Now, it may seem as if the soil is like cement around the roots. Just work at the soil and roots with your fingers until the soil begins to fall away.
• Use a garden hose to spray off both the roots and leaves of the plant. This should ensure that most if not all pests have been removed. If you don’t have access to a garden hose, then fill a bucket with water and dunk the plant roots to remove the rest of the soil.
• If the roots are entangled or have circled the container, then gently tug at the roots to free them. Next, perform root pruning. Prune circular roots and any unhealthy-looking roots. This process is good for plants. If you are unsure of how to do this, then look up specific instructions for your plant.

Repotting

• If you are reusing the same container, then thoroughly wash the container with soap and water. I add a tablespoon of bleach to the water to disinfect it. This will kill any disease that may be present in the container.
• Fill the existing or new container at least one-third full of fresh potting soil. Most potting soils will contain nutrients (fertilizer). The label on the potting soil bag will describe the contents including whether there is added fertilizer. However, if your potting soil does not contain any nutrients, then add a slow-release fertilizer directly in with the soil. Place your plant in the container. If the plant seems low in the container, then remove the plant and add additional soil. The top of the root ball should be about an inch or two below the top of the container.
• Fill in with additional soil. It is very important to compact down the soil as you add it to the container. You’ll be surprised how much the soil will compact. Add additional soil and continue to compact until a firm foundation is in place.
• At this point, I like to use the hose again to remove soil from the plant foliage and around the container. You can use a spray bottle if a hose is not practical.

That’s it. Place your plant in the spot that was chosen. Don’t overwater. Check the soil for dryness using your fingers. Water when dry. Remember plants require less water in the cooler months and no additional fertilizer. I hope this discussion about the four simple steps to transition houseplants indoors has been helpful. Good luck!

Additional Information

Here are a few other posts that you may enjoy.

• The Jade Plant – Undemanding and easy to grow
• How to care for indoor houseplants
• Five great indoor plants to give as a gift
• The complete guide to caring for spider plants
• Growing and caring for ferns as houseplants, the complete guide
• Why growing geraniums brings me happiness  

References

• Oklahoma State University Extension
• Penn State Extension – Pest and Disease Problems of Indoor Plants