I started growing basil in my garden five years ago when I received a basil plant in my weekly CSA (Community Supported Agriculture). I then began to buy a basil plant for the next few years and transplanted into my garden. Because I love the flavor of basil and wanted more plants, I decided to start basil from seed. This has worked well. It is important that basil is not transplanted until temperatures reach 65-70°F consistently. Basil is very cold sensitive and will not survive in colder temperatures. In this post you will learn how to successfully grow basil in your garden.
There are several varieties of basil, with the classic being ‘sweet basil’ know as Genovese. Genovese is my favorite and what I grow from seed. I love the spicy aroma and taste of Genovese. It is interesting to note that basil is part of the mint family (Lamiaceae).
A garden is a grand teacher. It teaches patience and careful watchfullness; it teaches industry and thrift; above all it teaches entire trust.
Gertrude Jekyll
Basil rooting in water
GROWING AND CARING FOR BASIL
GROWING BASIL
Basil can either be started indoors from seed (4-8 weeks before the last frost) or directed seeded outdoors after danger of frost has passed. It will germinate in five to fourteen days in temperatures above 65°F. Because basil is very cold sensitive it should not be planted outdoors until the soil reaches a minimum temperature of 60°F.
- Plant basil in a soil that is fertile, well-drained and amended with organic matter (e.g. the addition of compost and/or manures). Compost can be made at home or purchased from a garden center. For information on making compost at home, reference my blog titled “Recipes for Compost”. Work compost into the soil in the fall for a spring planting.
- Plant basil in an area that gets at least six hours of full sun.
- Basil grows best in a soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5.
- Follow the guidelines on the back of the seed package for planting depth and spacing. First, dig a small trough and sprinkle in the seeds (plant twice as many seeds as you want plants to ensure you get the number of plants you need). Next, cover lightly with soil and water. Water well while seeds are germinating. It will take five or more days for the seeds to germinate. Plants mature in approximately four-six weeks. Once the seedlings are a few inches tall and have their first true leaves, thin the plants to 6-12 inches apart. If you started the seeds indoors, transplant outside when the danger of frost has passed.
CARING FOR BASIL
- Young basil seedlings should have one to two inches of mulch applied to help the soil retain moisture and discourage weeds. Consider using black plastic mulch, straw or hardwood bark.
- Don’t let the soil dry out during germination and while young plants are establishing. Basil does not tolerate water stress. To prevent disease, use a drip irrigation method of watering keeping the leaves dry.
- Fertilizer plants at the time of transplanting and once or twice during the growing season with a balanced NPK (N-Nitrogen, P-Phosphorus, K-Potassium) of 1-1-1. Follow the directions on the label for application rate. Too much fertilizer will cause the flavor of the leaves to decline.
- Basil can be dug up and taken indoors when the temperatures turn cold. Basil needs a good sunny location and you may need to supplement the light requirements with artificial lights. Since basil is an annual, it will eventually die even if brought indoors.
- Basil is a good companion for tomatoes.
Basil seedling
PROBLEMS
There are several pests and disease that can impact basil. The best prevention is raising healthy plants and keeping them healthy:
- Plant when the temperature is warm enough
- Keep the leaves dry to prevent disease
- Remove plant debris at the end of the growing season
- Rotate crops each year
COMMON PESTS
Common pests include:
- Japanese beetle. Hand-picking beetles is a good preventive measure.
- Aphids can be removed with a heavy stream of water on leaves or stems.
COMMON DISEASE
Common diseases include:
- Fusarium wilt is a fungal disease that lives in the soil and impacts sweet basil. Stems and leaves will both discolor and leaves will drop. If this is suspected, the plant should be removed. This disease can live in the soil for many years and so avoid planting basil in this section of your garden. Look for varieties that are resistant to this fungal disease
- Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that impacts the leaves of basil. To prevent, ensure good air circulation, plant resistant varieties and remove plants that are infected to ensure that disease does not spread.
- Bacterial wilt also impacts the leaves. Remove and destroy impacted plants.
If you suspect that something is wrong with your basil and live in the US, check with your Cooperative Extension for help in identifying and determining appropriate controls for pests and disease.
Whorls of basil leaves
HARVESTING AND STORAGE
Harvest basil by cutting off individual leaves, whorls of leaves at the tips of stems or the whole plant. When cutting the stems, cut to a point down the stem right above the next set of leaves. For multiple harvests from the same plant, always leave at least 4 true leaves on the plant. Basil gets bushy the more frequently it is trimmed for harvest. When a flower stalk starts to develop at the top of the plant, pinch or cut it off. Flavor is negatively impacted after the plant blooms.
After harvest, wash and dry the leaves. Basil leaves can start to be harvested when the plant is six inches tall. The leaves can be used either fresh or can be dried for use in the future.
STORING BASIL
Once harvested, there are a few ways you can store:
- Place your basil stems in a glass of water and leave on the counter. Change the water after a few days. You may even notice that roots begin to develop on the stems. These ‘seedlings’ can then be transplanted as new plants back out in your garden.
- The refrigerator is generally too cold for basil but if you put basil in a plastic bag (with holes cut for ventilation), it will keep for a few days before starting to wilt and turn black.
- Dry the basil leaves for long term storage. First, gather a bunch of basil, secure the stems together with a rubber band and hang upside down to dry. Next, keep in a cool location for one-two weeks and the basil should be dry. Once the basil is dry, strip the stems and pinch the leaves between your fingers. Let the dried leaves fall on a paper towel. I like putting the leaves through a food processor and then placing in an airtight jar. Dried basil should be used within one year.
- Fresh basil can also be placed in the freezer by freezing individual basil leaves in a plastic bag.
Basil Pesto
PREPARING
Fresh basil has the best flavor quality. Here are my favorite things to do with basil:
- My recipe for Basil pesto
- My favorite is Caprese Salad with sliced tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, basil and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and salt/pepper to taste
- I love to put fresh basil on Eggplant Parmesan for extra flavor
- Add basil to soups, stews, sauces, herb butter and herb vinegar to perk up the taste
RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS
Genovese Basil (68 days to maturity)
- Also referred to as sweet basil. This is the best basil for making pesto. Spoon shaped leaves that are tender and sweet. Plants grow 10-12 inches.
BOTANICAL INFORMATION
Family: Lamiaceae – Mint family
Genus: Ocimum
Species: O. basilicum
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